BotMill's Blog

So you have a 3D Printer and now you want to print that prototype you’ve been thinking about for so long.

Here are a couple of ways to take your idea and turn it in to a perfectly layered 3D plastic object:

1. 3D Scanner

We can send someone out to you to scan your object. The 3D Scanner will scan your object. After the file most likely needs cleanup and then GCODE generation before sending to the 3D printer.

2. 3D CAD Designer

Simply contact us regarding our CAD design services. Our 3D CAD Designers will guide you along the way with your sketch / drawing in order to create a 3D file with perfect GCODE.

3. 3D Modeling Program

A good free 3D Modeling Program we recommend is Google Sketchup. You can create anything you want with this program. Also, very easy to create 3D text.

These days, as more and more people learn for the first time about 3D printing, we receive many questions regarding:

How do I take my 3D CAD file and send it to your 3D printer?

Well, here it goes:

• First, you will need to check if it saved in STL format. If it isn’t, please use a conversion software and follow up with a clean-up software of your choice.
• Use Skeinforge or Repsnapper to convert your file to GCODE.
  • Skeinforge: For advance users. This program doesn’t send the file to the printer directly, instead it’s a sophisticated GCODE generator. Many people that have bought BotMill 3D Printers are now using them with this program and printing (what looks to me) like near commercial quality plastic pieces. After GCODE is generated with this program, use RepSnapper to send the file to your printer.
  • RepSnapper: This program is full circle. Not only is it speedy fast with it’s GCODE generator, but you can also send the file directly to your printer. One downside is that the GCODE generator is not as sophisticated “yet” as Skeinforge.
• Use RepSnapper to send your file to your printer
  • Connect your printer to the correct port. “click connect”
  • Turn on heater. Make sure your printer has been warm for at least 5-10 minutes before printing.
  • Load GCODE
  • Position object on “virtual” board
  • Test extrusion before printing any 3D plastic piece
  • Click “Print” in top tab

That’s it! Once your object has finished to print, your extruder should return back to it’s home position (right above the aluminum purge plate).

Happy 3D Printer Printing – 3D Revolution!

Quick tip for our Axis 2.1 builders: When your mounting the spring/optobracket tandem on one of the “leadscrew base” pieces, you might find that the M4x40 cap screw will not reach the trapped M4 nut that simply will not sink to the bottom of it’s cavity. We’ve found that sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn’t. Instead of spending (too much) time trying to force the M4 Nut down, ease the process by using an M4x55 screw. Then, move on with the build.




In addition, if you visit our instructions page for the Z-Axis (Instructions) you will notice that we use quite a few washers on the Z-bar clamp piece; 10 on each screw to be exact. Traditional instructions use much less. What gives? Well, we’ve found that cushioning the M4x40 cap screw with the extra washers prevents the end of the screw from interfering with the “leadscrew” studding assembly.

• X-Axis
  • Carriage
  • Idler Bracket
  • Vert Bearing 180
  • Vert Bearing 360
  • Motor Bracket
  • X-Axis Final Assembly



Ready to start your frame? A great way to ensure a level, perfectly even machine before you actually calibrate the machine is to make sure the studding is even across the entire machine. Start this early, as in when you first begin the frame, making sure your tightening your M8 nuts evenly when you apply them. We suggest keeping the studding flush with the M8 Nut. Follow these steps so when your finished building the frame and focusing on small calibration-details, your already a step ahead. We’ve learned that doing this greatly reduces time spent on making the 3D printer level.

Good Afternoon DIY-ers,

In the Axis 2.1 kit, each axis (X, Y, Z) has it’s own “motor bracket” assembly. And it goes without saying, that each motor needs a gear.

Well guys, you might it difficult trying to mount the gear if you’re doing it without the help of some basic tools. Take a pair of pliers, and a hammer, and lightly tap the pliers (which you’ve strategically placed above the gear) with the hammer, and the gear will mount to the motor seamlessly. The result? a snug, proper fitment for your gear. This is important of course for quite a few reasons, the primary one being the fact that the motor is what’s driving the belt!

*Builder’s note – the gear MUST be mounted before you attach the motor to it’s assembly. It is possible to do so after you attach the motor, but your saving yourself a potential hassle/breach of plastic piece if you attach it before you build the assembly.

Happy printing

The BotMill Team

Hello all,

We’ve been receiving many emails daily from our BotMill Axis 2.1 customers in regards to wiring and crimping the wires for motors. Last week we posted a diagram to guide you when plugging in the electronics (see here)

Today we want to talk about crimping. Something that comes up frequently is “Is a special crimping tool necessary?” “What tool do I need to use to crimp wires for the motors?”

Here’s a tip: Just use a standard pair of needle-nose pliers, no special tool necessary. Also, you want to make sure there’s approximately 2-3mm of wire exposed when you insert it in the crimp. So, get those motors crimped, connected, and start printing!

The BotMill Team

So you went to BotMill.com and bought an Axis 2.1 kit? How’s the build going? Here’s a tip: “needle-nose” pliers are the perfect tool to trap M4 nuts.

It’s much easier to attach opto-flags as you build you assemblies, rather than putting it off until your Axis 2.1 kit is built. Tinkering with the machine after it is complete could comprise build quality if you shake it up while trying to attach opto-flags. Moral of the story? Don’t forget to attach your opto-flags when building assemblies.

We found this older posting  on exporting to STL once you have designed your 3D object in google sketchup here: http://www.cerebralmeltdown.com/cncstuff/stl/index.htm

Once in STL format, simply convert to gcode using skeinforge (better quality) or repsnapper and send to printer.